Western and Central Bhutan Delights

Your flight will likely include breathtaking views of Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, and other famous Himalayan peaks, including the sacred Mount Chomolhari and Jichu Drake of Bhutan.

On arrival at Paro, Bhutan, airport, meet your guide and driver after clearing immigration and customs. After introductions, your guide and driver will transfer you to a local restaurant for lunch. After lunch, visit the National Museum of Paro which gives an excellent presentation on Bhutan's history, culture, and religion. The museum exhibits a good collection of Bhutanese textiles, manuscripts, books, murals, armors, crafts, traditional utensils, philatelic collections, and more. Then, we can visit the impressive Rinpung Dzong Fortress that houses the office of the district administration and religious body. 

Now, we take scenic one-hour drive to Thimphu, the capital, with a stop for a short walk at the 13th-century temple of Tamchog Lhakhang-built by the famous Tibetan iron-bridge builder Thangthong Gyalpo – who was also a physician, teacher, and a saint! Until today, the descendants of the great architect owns and maintains the temple. 

In Thimphu, we’ll have time to settle in before a walking tour of the tiny city. Thimphu is probably the only capital in the world without any traffic lights! We will take a leisurely stroll and visit the memorial chorten(shrine) of the 3rd King of Bhutan Jigme Dorje Wangchuk, and whatever else time and our interest allow.

After breakfast, with our guide and driver, the adventures begin as we get a feel for the city. On the weekend, it's worth visiting the weekend market. Archery is the Bhutanese the national sport, and we’ll hope for matches while we’re there. 

Next, visit the National Institute Zorig Chusum that offers a six years course on Bhutan's traditional arts and crafts that include painting, wood carving, embroidery, and statue making. Then, visit the Simply Bhutan Museum, a living museum of Bhutan, resembling a typical village that promotes the cultural heritage and local lifestyle. Here, you will have a chance to wear traditional Bhutanese costumes and pose for photographs, if you wish.  

Next stop – the National Institute of Traditional Medicine, dispensary of traditional Bhutanese herbal and other medicines. Other attraction, if time permits and if you wish is a textile academy that preserves the centuries-old living art of Bhutan. Thimphu's latest addition is Buddha Dordenma, a giant 177 ft tall Buddha statue on a ridge overlooking the valley.

Late afternoon, take a short 10-minute hike through the forest to visit the Takin Sanctuary. A Takin, a kind of sheep by way of antelope, is the National animals of Bhutan and believed to exist only in Bhutan Himalaya. On the way back to our hotel, we’ll stop at the Zilukha Nunnery in Drubthob Goemba, home to 40-60 Buddhist nuns.

Finally, we visit the Trasichoe Dzong -a beautiful fortress that houses the Royal Throne, National Assembly, and the seat of Chief Abbot of the central monastic body.

An option: Hiking enthusiasts keen to experience a monastic lifestyle away from the crowds of town can take a half-day hike to Tango Goemba monastery. There will be a trade-off with some sights listed above though. Tango Goebma Monastery is Bhutan's highest learning center for Buddhist studies. All Je Khenpo, the religious head of Bhutan, must complete a nine-year program here and a three-year, three-month, three-day in mediation at the nearby Cheri Goemba Monastery! With luck, the monks will be in recess, and we can join them for tea. If you wish, you can also hike to  Cheri Goemba Monastery back to back, and please, allow another two hours for this monastery.

Are you interested in Buddhist astrology? On our way back, we can stop at Pangri Zampa Temple-an astrology school for the state clergy. More than a hundred monks study astrology in this center and accept public for astrology consultation. They need minimum a week-advance notice and also expect a donation to the school.

(77 km/ 48 miles, 3 hrs.)

Following breakfast, we begin a scenic drive to Punakha, the former winter capital of Bhutan. As we leave Thimphu behind, the road gradually winds up through villages and pine forests to Dochula Pass (3100m/10168 ft.), marked by 108 Buddhist shrines, flickering with sacred prayers flags offered by the Buddhist devotees. On a clear day, the pass offers a superb panorama of the snow-capped mountains and the valleys.

Two hours later we’ll be in Punakha, the end of a road that drops slowly through the changing vegetation to the sub-tropical lowlands of the Punakha and Wangdue Valleys. Settled into our room and re-energized after a hearty lunch, we are ready for the exploration of the valley.

We first hike to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten – a pleasant hike, first through the paddy fields and then along a path that twirls up a hill above which sits the magnificent temple. From the road, it should take about 45 minutes up but the return trip is much faster. Built by the Queen Mother, the temple is an example of Bhutan's most beautiful traditional architecture. The location also offers a superb view of the valley.

Back down, we ride to the stunning Punakha Dzong, probably the most impressive of all the Dzong (fortress) architectures of Bhutan. It has served as the winter capital of Bhutan, and even today the chief abbot moves here for the winter retreat.

(49 miles, 3 hours)

A short and easy hike that you don't want to miss is Chime Lhakhang. It's less than 25 minutes from the main road, and the trail goes through paddy fields and villages. The houses here depicts phallic symbol on the walls and doors! You might even see the door handles or knobs carved out in the shape of a phallus! Ask your guide why. The temple is associated with Lama Drukpa Kuenley, who is also known as the Divine Madman for his funny way of teaching Buddhism. Local childless women visit the temple for the fertility blessing

Late morning, we are off to Phobjhikha Valley. We cross the Lawala Pass and continue on the winding road down to the glacial valley of Phobjikha on the slopes of Black Mountains. Phobjikha is also referred to as Gangtey, after a prominent Gangtey Gompa, which is the only Nyingmapa Monastery in this region.

Hiking option: If you wish, you can hike on the Gangtey Nature Trail for about 2-hours through the pine forest and the valley. The hike begins at Gangtey monastery and ends over the meandering Chu Nap ( Black River) near Khewang village where we meet our transport and transfer to the hotel. Those who are not hiking can go with the driver.

The Phobjika Valley is also known for its endangered Black-necked cranes, which circle the monastery as they migrate into Punakha from the high Tibetan plateau during winter and people believe, they bring good luck to the valley. An annual festival is held here on 11th November every year to welcome the Sarus Cranes! 

Today's explorations also include the Sarus Crane Conservation Center and take a leisurely walk through the village to the hotel. 

A stunning day today, covering 75 miles over four to five hours, as we backtrack to the main road and head to the east. The road gradually climbs the Black Mountain Range and crosses Pele-la pass (10,824 feet, or 3,300 meters) where we stop briefly to enjoy the panoramic views that include Mount Jhomolhari on the border with Tibet. Below is Trongsa, the hometown of the present rulers of Bhutan. A few miles before the town is the Chendebji chorten-a sizeable white monument, which is said to have concealed the remnants of an evil spirit that was subdued here.

Check into the hotel and, after refreshment, we’ll visit the Trongsa Dzong , one of the largest and the most impressive of all Dzongs in Bhutan (and the site of emergence of monarchy in Bhutan) and Ta Dzong, a former watch tower turned into a temple dedicated to Jigme Namgyel, the father of the first King of Bhutan.

(Altitude 9,184 ft., distance 43 miles, 2 ½ hours)

From Trongsa, the road climbs to the Youtongla pass (11,234 feet, or 3,425 meters) and then descends to Chume, the first of the four Bumthang valleys. Zugney Village here is home to the Yathra workshops, where they make deep-colored wool textiles in a pattern typical to these parts of the country.

We will have time to settle into our accommodation, and soon we are off to explore Bumthang's attractions. Bumthang Valley, regarded as the cultural heart of Bhutan, and a place of stories.

We could start with the Jambay Lhakhang Temple, which was built in the 7th century by the King Songtsen Gampo of Tibet. Legend has it that this was one of 108 temples he built miraculously in a single night in Tibet and neighboring countries. The next stop – Kurjey Lhakhang Temple – also has a story: Kurjey means “body imprint,” and to justify this, the temple enshrines a cave where Guru Rimpoche meditated and, yes, left his body imprint there.

From here, we take a short walk (30 minutes), crossing a suspension bridge to visit the Tamshing or Tamzhing Monastery, an essential Nyingma monastery of the region, founded by the great Nyingma guru Pemalingpa. Another brief walk will bring us to Kenchosum Lhakhang, probably the region’s most beautiful monastery. The original temple dates back to the 9th Century, but the current one is a complete reconstruction after it caught by fire in 2010.

Then, a cultural shift. We will meet our driver here for a ride to Panda Brewery and a small cheese factory, founded by a Swiss man in 1960s. Prior appointment is necessary (Admission ticket $5 is not included). 

Later, we can take a relaxed stroll in the Chamkhar, a bustling one-street town with a goldsmith, tailors, several butchers, cafes, and handicraft stores.

Today, with our guide and driver, we go on a scenic drive to Ura Valley with charming villages and spectacular landscape. The valley of Ura is believed to be the home of the earliest inhabitants of Bhutan. Tourists less frequent Ura Valley. We enjoy views of snow-capped mountains along the way.

Hiking option: After about 2-hours, we stop in Serthangla pass and begin our hiking which is mostly downhill through the alpine-like vegetation. The trail continues into steep downhill amidst lush vegetation and beautiful wildflowers. Along the path, we may come across the horses and the cattle grazing. The trail opens into a broad serene valley with picturesque houses. It takes about one hour from the pass to get to the main village. Those who are not hiking can go with your driver.

Once in the valley, take a leisurely stroll through the village and visit the Ura Temple that dominates the landscape as you enter the village. Take a chance to see the monks inside the temple in prayer and also the community kitchen behind where the villagers take the turn to cook for the monks and pilgrims visiting the temple. Meander on the narrow cobbled street around the medieval-looking village. The village has a cluster of 50 whitewashed houses that are typical in the countryside.

Enjoy a traditional meal with a family and also take a chance to check out their dwelling. As the villagers are dependent on livestock breeding and farming, the houses are designed to accommodate them.

In the middle of the village is a small flour mill where the villagers grind the wheat, rice, or millet that they harvest. Also, visit the village school.

After spending some quality time in the village, we will take our van ride back to Jakar, which takes about 3-hours with the occasional stops on the way for photography.

Note: There are only two or three flights a week.

After breakfast, you are transferred to the airport for flight back to Paro. 

At Paro airport, meet a new driver and transfer to the hotel. Time permitting, your guide and driver will be happy to take you around. You can go for a hike or take a stroll in the township.

Today, we take the hike to the legendary Takstang Monastery – the Tiger's Nest, Bhutan’s most famous pilgrimage. Perched dramatically on the edge of a 2,000-foot cliff above the valley, Tiger's Nest is the unofficial symbol of Bhutan and makes an unforgettable experience for anyone who hikes this temple. The round trip is about four hours for a physically fit person. Non-hikers can take pony ride up to a two-thirds of the trail, but onward the path is narrow and the return trip down is too steep for the ponies.  

On the way back to Paro, we will detour to the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong, a 16th-century monastery built to mark the Bhutanese victory over Tibetan invaders, and the ancient Kyichu Lhakhang Temple – another of the 108 temples that King Songsten Gampo of Tibet built in a single night in the 7th century!

Optional Hot Stone Bath:
With advance notice, you can experience a traditional Hot Stone Bath in a farmhouse. Hot stone bath is a conventional Bhutanese method of curing skin ailments, joint pains, hypertension, stomach disorders, arthritis, and many other minor diseases. Even if you don’t have any of these issues, it’s a wonderfully relaxing hot stone bath, especially after such a difficult hike. It costs around US$ 25 per person.

After breakfast, your guide and driver will see you off at the airport.